IT’S MY HAIR – ANNIVERSARY

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Firstly, I thank God for the privilege of being alive and well today.

Four years ago, I looked in the mirror and said to myself – “I think I should start today”.
That was October 17 2009, the day I decided to start my hair journey and turn my hair around.

I had tried to take care of my hair before that day and I had failed.
However, the day I started my hair journey I knew somehow that this attempt wouldn’t fail.  The one thing that was different about this journey was research.  I had been working hard on researching black hair from its roots to its tips.

Since my stylist seemed as clueless as me, I realised I would have to figure things out myself.  I realised that I would never get to the root of my hair breakage problems until I understood my hair and what it needed.  I knew that was the only way I would be able to identify what I was doing wrong.

 

THE TRANSFORMATION

Hair-nnivesary

From left to right: My hair at 1 year plus, 2 years plus and 3 years plus on my hair journey

Through the first year I have received all sorts of comments, from encouraging ones to downright annoying ones like “wow, you clearly have time to waste, oh you’re trying to grow your hair again, you have tried everything in the past and your hair is still like this, why are you bothering, everyone knows black hair just isn’t good”.  But by this point I had seen way too many healthy hair transformations on the internet that I just refused to give up.  And now I am having the last laugh.

The only comment that almost got me was “Lade, it’s just hair, calm down”.  And you know what, I agree.  It IS just hair…….but if you have ever experienced hair loss like I have in the past, when every time you touch your hair loads of it falls out, when there are patches of your head where the hair is “missing”,  when you realise you may actually have to rely on extensions to hide state of your hair.
If you have ever experienced the panic and stress that can set in with  hair loss, in my opinion, you realise that maybe it’s a little bit deeper than “just hair”.  Having hair is normal,  hair loss isn’t.

Four years later I am here updating Hairducation with a big smile on my face thinking, I DID IT!!!!!!!
I am not confused or worried about my hair anymore, it is healthy and it is longer than I thought was possible for me as a black and proudly Nigerian woman.

Although this blog and many others may seem to focus on HAIR LENGHT at first glance, I assure you that HAIR HEALTH is the core and true message behind any decent hair care blog.
I want to use this blog post to say to every single person, blogger, vlogger and author who has taken the time to put black hair care information on the internet, thank you.  You saved my hair and saved me from permanent hair loss caused by lack of knowledge.

To any reader  trying to sort her hair out, the information you need is out there, but you have to be willing to find it, to learn it, to change your hair care habits and with time your hair will thrive, it will grow. Don’t wait till the hair loss is permanent.

There is soooooooooooo much more to life than hair.  I am not my hair but my hair is a part of me…….and there is nothing wrong in being proud that at last, I can say my hair is doing just fine.

Happy hair anniversary to me and happy hair journey to you.

X

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow

HAIR CARE IN SECTIONS

 

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Breakage!!!  We all hate it and yet there are so many easy ways to avoid it.
A great way to reduce breakage is by handling or working on your hair in sections.  I am a full blown sectionista.  From detangling through to moisturising and sealing, I always work in sections when I am caring for my hair.

ADVANTAGES OF HANDLING HAIR IN SECTIONS

1) It will make it easier for you to locate and untangle knots in your hair.

2) If you have an area where your hair is weak or the scalp is sensitive, you can section that area off so that you can give it extra tlc or handle it gently.

3) It ensures better product distribution, for example, applying moisturiser in sections will ensure that all you hair gets a good share of the hair product.

4) It will give you better access to you scalp.

5) It helps in reducing the damage that can be caused by combing.  This is because you can gently ease the comb through smaller sections of hair rather than trying to drag/force it through all your hair at once.

 

PRACTICAL TIPS FOR HAIR CARE IN SECTIONS

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1) Divide your hair into 4 or more sections depending on how full and long your hair is.

2) The sections don’t have to be neat, straight or the exact size.

3) You don’t have to use a comb to create the sections.  Your fingers can do the job.  Ensure your nails are smooth.  I can’t tell you how many times I’ve ripped out hair because my nails were rough.

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4) Use a hair clip or band to keep the sections separated.  Alternatively you can put each section in a loose braid or twist

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5) Try to complete as many of your hair care tasks in sections, i.e, detangle in sections, wash in sections, apply conditioner in sections, etc.

I hope you have found this post useful and that it will encourage you to try handling your hair in sections.

X

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow

HAIR CARE WHILST WEARING EXTENSIONS (Part 3)- removal of extensions and washing in braids guide

hair in braidsMy hair put into single braids before being washed  

Hello ladies, I am such a naughty blogger.

I’ve been meaning to update the blog but I’ve been so busy that my head is spinning half the time.  My own hair has been under one of my Hair by Type 4 wigs because I knew I would be really busy and not have as much time to take care of it. I am also a little under the weather and now that I am forced to sit and actually rest, I finally have time to publish Part 3 of the hair care in weaves and braids series.

In this post, I will discuss how hair should be removed from extensions and how to cleanse your hair after extensions have been removed.  I hope the following tips will help you avoid unnecessary hair loss.
Please ensure you have read part 1 and 2 of the series.

 

REMOVAL OF EXTENTIONS & AFTERCARE

1) Detangle as you unravel.  When undoing the cornrows underneath the weave or the plaits of your braids, detangle as you go along.
If you wait till you finish undoing the weave tracks or braids before you detangle, it is likely that you will become overwhelmed and not detangle properly and you may also fail to remove the shed hairs.

2) Do not use combs to rip out knots.  Use your fingers to loosen and separate any knots or matted hair you come across.   You can then follow gently with the use of a wide tooth comb.

3) A little olive oil can be applied to the knots or matted hair to assist with detangling.  Olive oil is known for helping to remove shed hairs.  Alternatively if you own a detangling spray, a little can be sprayed on the knots and matted hair.

4) Wash and deep condition (in single plaits)
We are often advised to wash and deep condition our hair after extensions have been taken out to remove dirt, build-up and to restore moisture and strength to our hair fibres.  However this can result in matted hair.  This is because when water is poured on hair that has just been removed from extensions, the shed hairs slip and often tangles with other hair strands.

However washing your hair in single braids (calabar) restricts the movement of the shed hairs  and prevents it  from tangling or forming locs.

The process is simple

  • Unravel and detangle each braid or weave track.
  • After the whole head has been detangled, plait your hair in 6 or more single plaits (see the picture above of my hair in braids)
  • Wash and deep condition your hair with the single braids in.
  • Rinse thoroughly
  • Undo each braid, apply your leave in products and detangle.
  • Air dry or blow dry on a cool setting and then moisturise and seal.

This may seem long winded but it works very well in preventing matting.

I hope you find this post useful.  Now I am going to do two things, take my next dose of pain killers and call up a few friends before they think I am missing.

I have a HUGE announcement coming really soon……I’ve been up to something….its hair related and is one of the main reasons why I’ve been so busy (and tired) lately.
I really can’t wait to share it all with you.

x

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow

HAIR CARE WHILST WEARING EXTENSIONS (part 2): How to care for your hair within extensions

Hair care in extensions

Weaves and braids can be great protective styles however access to your own hair is restricted.  This makes it difficult to care for your own hair underneath or within the extensions.  It is essential however that you complete some aspects of your hair regimen despite the restricted access.

This blog post will provide guidance on the safe installation of extensions and how to care for your own hair when wearing weaves or braids.   I must warn you, it’s a long one.  So I suggest you read it over a few days to avoid getting confused or overwhelmed.

Please ensure that you have already read the previous post which addresses the pros and cons extensions.  Also please ensure you have read the contents of the How to Care for Black Hair guide.
This guide will help you understand the principles of hair care and how to apply them to your hair when wearing extensions.

WHAT YOU SHOULD DO TO YOUR HAIR BEFORE INSTALLING EXTENSIONS

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1)      Ensure your hair is in good condition before installing a weave or braids.
If your hair is in a poor state I would suggest that you follow a hair regimen until your hair is better and then you can return to wearing weaves as a protective style from time to time.

2)      If your hair is in a poor state and you would rather not wear it out, consider wearing wigs which will give you access required to care for your hair until it is in a good state.

3)      If your hair is in a good state, ensure that you wash and deep condition your hair before installing the weave.  Use a protein deep conditioner to help strengthen your hair in preparation for your install.  If your hair is protein sensitive you can use a mixture of protein and moisture.

4)      Use a moisturising leave in to help ensure moisture and protein balance.

5)      Detangle with your hands and follow with a wide tooth comb.

6)      Moisturise and seal your hair lightly.  Your hair should feel strong but supple/flexible.  It should NOT feel dry and crunchy.

7)      Never ever EVER relax your hair and get a weave or braids done the same day.  Wait at least two to three weeks before installing braids or weaves.
If for whatever reason you prefer to not wear your hair out during this period remember a wig can be worn.

 

HOW TO INTALL EXTENSIONS CORRECTLY

Prep for weave

 

1)      Avoid excessive or aggressive combing when the braids or cornrows for the weave are being made. A wide tooth or medium tooth comb should be used to comb the hair.

2)      Ensure the cornrows are not excessively tight, small bumps around hair line or white tipped hairs sticking out around the hairline are signs that the braids or weave is too tight.  Remember that hair around the hairline is usually very delicate.

3)       For weave, as far as possible the hair should be stitched on in a way that allows as much access as possible to the cornrows underneath.  This will give you a little access so you can care your hair to some degree whilst wearing the weave.

4)      For braids, avoid adding too much extension hair to each section.  The weight of the extensions combined with the tightness of the braid may pull out hair and can damage to the hair follicles especially along the hair line.
Remember don’t put a hairstyle above the risk of permanent damage to your hair follicles.

 

HOW TO INCORPORATE A HAIR REGIMEN WITH WEARING EXTENSIONS

 

CLEANSING

Research I have done suggests that hair in extensions should be cleansed every two weeks.

There are two methods through which you can cleanse your own hair and scalp when wearing weaves and braids.

Option 1: Diluted Shampoo
Shampoo can be diluted with water and put in a spray bottle or applicator bottle.

The diluted shampoo should be sprayed/applied to the cornrows/tracks for the weave or the base of the braids, massage for a few minutes to create some lather and lift dirt. Rinse thoroughly and wrap in a towel/tshirt to absorb the water.

I must say that when I wore weaves in the past I never cleansed my hair using this method. For me it was like having a bath with clothes on and I was not sure if the extension hair would hold up.  I wanted to avoid getting the extensions tangled and matted.
Several ladies however wash their hair with weaves using this method without any problems.
When I wore braids in the past, I washed it using this method.

 

Option 2: Dry clean
Because I never felt comfortable with washing my hair in weaves I came up with a way to clean my scalp: baby wipes.
I would gently rub my scalp (the spaces between the tracks) with the baby wipes to remove dirt and grease.  I did this once a week.

Alternatively, cotton wool pads and very warm to water can be used.
The cotton wool pads should be dipped in the water, squeezed and then used to wipe your scalp gently.

The heat from the cotton wool really helps with lifting dirt and grease from the scalp.

The down side to this method is that although it cleans the scalp it will not clean the hair itself.

I overcame this issue by avoiding the use of heavy creams and lotion on my weave tracks.  I used light sprays and light oils instead.

 

CONDITIONING

There are two methods of conditioning your own hair whilst wearing extensions.

Option 1: Diluted conditioner
Your conditioner can be diluted with water and put into an applicator bottle.  It can applied to the cornrows/tracks for the weave or the base of the braids.  Ensure you rinse thoroughly and squeeze gently..  A towel or t-shirt can be wrapped on you head to absorb the water.   Ensure the weave/braids and your hair dries fully.

 

Option 2: Leave in conditioning sprays
An alternative method of conditioning is to use a liquid leave in conditioning spray.  These are usually very light and do not leave too much product residue on the hair. This is the method I used when I wore weaves and braids in the past.
The spray should be aimed at the tracks of the weave because this is where your own hair is.  For braids, the length and base can be sprayed lightly.  Ensure your hair and the extensions dries fully.

Please see the picture below showing examples of leave in moisturising sprays.  The product in the middle is a detangler but this particular detangler is also a fantastic hair mist that I highly recommend.  Please note that the product to the right (CHI) is a protein product so should not be used excessively.

Braid Sprays

MOISTURISING AND SEALING

Moisturising
A moisturising spray can be used to hydrate the tracks of the weave or the braids.
The spray can be used three or four times a week, do not over saturate the hair, just a light misting to prevent chronic dryness. The use of moisturising creams and lotions is not ideal because they can leave a lot of residue on your hair.  Product residue may cause matting because you may not be able to cleanse your hair thoroughly due to restricted access.

Sealing
A light oil such as coconut oil or jojoba oil can be applied to the scalp and massaged in.  Massaging the scalp regularly will encourage blood flow to the hair follicles and helps to keep the scalp pliable.  This may be done once or twice a week.  A very small amount of oil should be used to prevent the oil running into the weave hair making it look stringy and greasy.

OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION

1) I would suggest that you keep your weave/braids in for one month minimum and two to three months maximum.
There is a lot of manipulation involved in creating a weave and getting new weave/braids put in every two/three weeks will be very strenuous on your hair.  Leaving the extensions in for over two to three months may lead to your hair matting within the braids or underneath the weave.  Matted hair is very difficult to untangle and will likely lead to breakage.

2) For weaves, if you have left some of your hair to blend with your weave, try to continue your regular regimen on the hair that has been left out. Try to wash and condition the hair left out once a week.

 

I know!!!!!!!!!
This blog post has been quite long but I do hope you have found it to be a worthwhile read.

Please stay tuned for the third and final part of this series in which I will share what should be done to your hair after removing extensions.  This will also include the highly demanded how to wash your hair in braids/calabar guide.

Till then I hope you Learn | Change | Grow

x

Lade

HAIR CARE WHILST WEARING EXTENSIONS: The pros and cons of hair extensions (Part 1)

Braids and weaves

It is apparent that several of us wear weaves, braids and wigs majority of the time and rarely leave our own hair out.

Extensions are versatile, allowing you to switch up your hair style and can be a fantastic long term protective style.
I love wigs in particular and still wear them regularly despite the length of my own hair.
However several ladies have suffered severe breakage and traction alopecia as a result of hair extensions.

In this 3 part series, I will set out the pros and cons of wearing extensions, what you should do to ensure your extensions are installed and removed correctly, and most importantly, how to care for your own hair when wearing extensions so that hair loss is minimised.

 

CONS: why extensions can be destructive to your hair and scalp

Alopecia

 

1) Hair that is in poor condition before installing extensions.
If your hair is weak and/or in a poor condition, hiding it in a weave/braids and ignoring it will not make your hair problems go away.  So when you eventually remove your extensions the problem will still be there waiting for you and may have even worsened due to weeks of neglect.
Ensure your hair is in good shape and resolve any underlying problems before installation.   Remember, creating and being consistent with your hair journey will keep your hair in good condition in preparation for your extensions.

2) Tight and heavy extensions.
It is well known that weaves and braids should not be too tight when installed, especially around the hairline, but the fact is several of us (myself included in the past) ignore this advice.
Several of us have severely damaged hair lines due to traction alopecia (hair loss causes by the weight and tension of extensions) and yet we carry on repeating such hair styles.  When installing your extensions, ensure that the hair line and other sensitive part of your hair are handled gently and that too much extension hair is not used or added to such areas.  The weight of the extension hair on delicate areas for weeks is likely to cause hair loss.

3) Choosing styles that your hair cannot withstand.
As noted above several of us have experienced hair loss as a result of wearing extensions.
Note that if your hair follicle (root of the hair) has been permanently damaged, those follicles may either stop producing hair or the hair they re-grow may be weak and sparse in comparison to the other parts of your head.  This is why it is very important to stop doing hair styles that your hairline and other sensitive parts of your hair cannot withstand.
You should either find a way to prevent such loss and be willing to stop wearing such hair styles if your hair cannot withstand it.  Because in the long run it could result in PERMANENT hair loss.  We all know women whose hairline has “refused” to grow back. Don’t make the same mistake.
If your hairline keeps getting pulled out by braids or weaves, it may grow back now but if you keep doing such styles it may become permanently damaged and not grow back.

For example I haven’t worn braids or cornrows in almost 10 years because despite my efforts my hairline was always pulled out because of the weight of the extensions.  My hairline, particularly my temples are very delicate.  I would install braids or cornrows, it would rip out my hairline, I would wait for my hair line to re-grow and then re-install.  Talk about a vicious cycle.  After I accepted that braids were just not compatible with my hairline, I stopped wearing braided hair styles.
The moral of the story is this: I decided to put the health of my hair before a hair style and I stopped wearing braids or cornrows.
If you are fortunate enough to have a hairline that can withstand braids/cornrows then by all means please continue wearing such styles if you so desire.

4) Neglecting your own hair whilst wearing extensions.
Extensions should not be seen as a holiday from caring for your own hair.
You will not have to complete your full weekly hair regimen due to restricted access but completely ignoring your own hair whilst wearing extensions is not advisable.  Neglecting your own hair will lead to severely dry hair which has a greater risk of breaking especially when the extensions are being taken out.  There is a lot of manipulation when removing braids and weaves (unravelling the braids or weave tracks, detangling, combing).  Manipulating dry and brittle hair is likely to result in high amounts of breakage.

 5) Improper removal of extensions.
As noted above, there is a lot of manipulation involved in taking out hair extensions.  Rushing the removal process is not advisable and will certainly do more harm than good.  Hair that has been in extensions for weeks is usually fragile; it is the worst possible time to be aggressive with your hair.
Improper removal of hair extensions can lead to a setback on your hair journey.

 

PROS: reasons why extensions can be good protective styles

1) They are low maintenance.  Note that I said LOW maintenance not NO maintenance, basically your hair regimen is not as intense and time consuming as when you are wearing your own hair.

2) They can be worn for several weeks making them long term protective styles so you will not need to re-style your own hair every day, they are time saving.

3) Several extensions styles hide majority or all of your hair protecting it from damage by exposure to the elements, sun, wind, harmattan dust, etc.

4) Extensions prevent constant manipulation like combing and brushing, this helps with hair retention.  the more hair you retain, the longer your hair will become over time.

5) They can be incorporated into your hair regimen and may used as a means of growing your hair (it is a good hair retention tool).

 

As I have emphasised through out this site, I only wear wigs.  I have not worn braids in almost 10 years or sew-on weaves for over 6 years now.
This is a PERSONAL choice because my hairline is very delicate and could not withstand braids and the pressure and tightness of weaves even when I did everything right .  I decided to give my hair a break from both and started wearing wigs at the beginning of my hair journey and I haven’t looked back since because this is what works for me.

I realise however that there are ladies out there whose hair and scalp can tolerate weaves and braids and that is why I decided to start this series. I hope you find it helpful.

 

Part two will be up real soon, so I hope you will be back here soon.

x

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow