TRIMMING YOUR HAIR

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When it comes to black hair, trimming usually equals drama.
I remember avoiding certain hair stylists in salons because they were known to be scissor happy and always cut too much hair off.  I also recall seeing ladies refusing to trim off extremely thin ends.
In this blog post I will discuss why hair needs to be trimmed, common myths about trimming and my personal approach and advice on trimming.

The first thing I want to set out is that if you trim off more hair than you grow, over time your hair will get shorter and shorter.  However damaged ends should be removed for hair to thrive.  A balance between these opposite positions must be achieved for success on a hair journey.

WHY HAIR NEEDS TO BE TRIMMED

Trimming is the only real solution to damaged and split ends.
Products that claim to repair damaged /split ends can only seal and strengthen the ends temporarily.  The fact is that damaged hair cannot be repaired and will eventually break off.  It is better to remove/trim off damaged ends because healthy ends look better.  More importantly, healthy ends are better able to resist breakage and tangle less which helps with retaining hair.  Remember that retention (minimising breakage and damage) is the key to long hair.


COMMON MYTHS ABOUT TRIMMING

1) In my opinion, the number one myth about trimming is that it makes hair grow longer.  This is not true.  As I mentioned above trimming off damaged/split ends helps with retention.

Trimming helps with hair retention in two ways:
a)Split ends can latch on to each other which causes tangles. Tangles can easily lead to breakage.  More split equals more tangles and breakage.  Less split ends will result in less tangles and breakage.
b) There is strength in numbers, when all ends are neat and roughly at the same level it can withstand wear and tear and will resist breakage better.  For example, it is very easy to break one or ten spaghetti sticks; it would be more of a challenge to break 1000 spaghetti sticks.  So when creating styles or handling your hair, the fuller and healthier  your ends are,  the better they will at withstanding  tension and pulling in comparison to thin weak ends.

For these reasons people tend to see progress in their hair retention and length when they trim off damaged hair.  It is not the trim itself that causes the hair to thrive; it is simply that they have removed damaged ends thereby reducing the risk of breakage.

2) A second myth is that black hair must be trimmed every —– weeks to thrive.  Some say it’s every 6 weeks, others say it’s every 8 weeks.
I believe that black hair should be trimmed when it needs to be trimmed.  It should not be trimmed solely because a certain number of weeks has passed.  If a lady has perfectly healthy ends, trimming it just because 8 weeks has passed will not make her hair grow longer.  Her hair isn’t just going to fall apart because she did not trim it at 8 weeks.  I will expand on this in the section below.

 

MY APPROACH TO TRIMING

hairducation ends transformation

Sorry for the picture quality.
The picture on the left was taken 6 months into my hair journey, you can see how bad my ends were.
The picture on the right was taken almost a year and half into my hair journey.
It took me that long to sort my ends out.


It is not my intention to change how you trim your hair.  I simply want to share my view and method on trimming.

For the first year and half of my hair journey, I trimmed often because my hair was badly damaged. To be honest my hair needed a cut not a trim but I just couldn’t cut off that much hair in one go.  So I trimmed one inch off every 8 weeks because my ends were damaged.  This adds up to 6 inches a year.

When my hair had improved and was thicker and healthier, I made sure my ends were well taken care of and kept in protective styles.  This way, I reduced the risk of new split ends forming and minimised damage.
The effect of this was that I could reduce how often and how much hair I trimmed. I began assessing my ends regularly and trimmed when I felt it was necessary.  During this period, I was trimming about 2.5 inches a year.

Currently I trim my hair 2 or 3 times a year based on what my hair needs. I am trimming roughly 4 inches a year because I have reached my goal length and I want to remove ends which are naturally thin from age.

My advice for ladies who want to maximise hair growth is that if you have just begun your hair journey, cut off split and damaged ends.  As you progress on your hair journey you should see an improvement in your hair. You should then monitor your ends and trim them when they need trimming.
But please don’t lie to yourself; if your ends are damaged and split, don’t hang on to it.  If you can’t stomach trimming a lot of hair in on go, trim it gradually.
If you go to a salon for trimming do not be scared to stand your ground on how often and how much hair you want to trim.

I hope you have found this post useful.

Are you scared of trimming your hair? How often do you trim your hair currently and what are your methods? I would love to hear your stories and views on trimming.

In the next blog post, I finally discuss the art of stretching.  I hope you’ll be back soon.

X

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow


 

HAIR LOSS AT THE HAIR LINE (Part 2) – How To Prevent and Re-grow Receeding Hair Lines

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Hello ladies,

I hope you’ve read part one of this series in which I set out some causes of receding hairlines.
Please note that our hairline is naturally more sparse than other areas of our hair however if you notice that your hairline is getting thinner than normal you should address this issue.
In this blog post, I will share tips that help to prevent receding hairlines and show how re-grow them if some hair loss has already occurred.  Please note that a few tips have already been shared in part one.

1) Review and Adjust Your Techniques and Styles
Be aware of how you handle your hair.
Are you being gentle enough with it?  Look at your tools.  Is your brush soft enough? Is your comb too fine?  Are you combing or brushing your hair unnecessarily? Is your hair moisturised and sealed before you style it.

Review your hairstyle choices and make adjustments where necessary, for instance, when you wear a bun if you feel a pull on your nape and edges when you turn or move your head, you should loosen the bun. Buns don’t have to be excessively tight to look cute.  Don’t sacrifice the health of your edges for the sleekness of a hair style.
Also try wearing styles that don’t put pressure or tension on your edges, eg faux fringes and bangs.

Reharirducation.com -bunwith less tension

Getting in on the “selfie” action before the year runs out 🙂
Bun with bangs to hide/protect my edges

 

2) Full Weaves, Lace Front Wigs and Other Full Wigs
These can place a lot of weight on your edges because they are either sewed on, glued on or have clips that need to be placed on your hairline t lay flat and  have a realistic finish. These styles place weight and tension your edges for a prolonged period.
So although a lot of ladies believe that full wigs/weaves offer greater protection, for ladies with very delicate hairlines, they may actually do more harm than good.  If your hairline is naturally very fragile or has become very sparse I wouldn’t advise you to wear such styles.

3) Hair Left Out
When wearing a half weave or half wig, ensure you are taking care of the hair you leave out.  The hair left out still needs to be cleansed and conditioned.
You may not have to deep condition; conditioner may be applied to the hair left out and rinsed after 10 minutes.  Be gentle when handling hair left out and ensure you are still sleeping with your hair covered with a satin scarf.  Most importantly the hair must be moisturised and sealed regularly especially before going to bed.

Keep use of heat on hair left out to a minimum.  Rather than pressing the hair with a straightner, you can moisturise and seal the hair left out at night, tie it down with a scarf so the hair is flat and in-place over night.  When you remove your scarf the next morning your hair should be smooth and flat.

4) Don’t Be A Repeat Offender
If you notice that your hairline is becoming sparse when you wear some hairstyles, ensure that you/your stylist are being gentle when creating or undoing such styles.
Also make sure that you are taking care of your hair and hairline whilst wearing the style.  If despite your efforts your hairline keeps receding, consider giving up those styles.

Don’t simply wait for your edges to re-grow only to re-do the hair style .

Don’t take the fact that your hair line grows back for granted. If you continue with this habit the hair in those areas will become increasingly sparse and may eventually stop growing.


5) Hairline Products
There are so many products on the market which help to keep edges smooth or laid.  Avoid using harsh products which leave your hair feeling dry and crunchy like some gels and holding spritz do.
Products such as Edge Control or Smooth n Hold Pudding or natural gel products like Eco Styler Gel are better options.  Also natural options such as aloe vera gel or shea butter are great.

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6) Massage

Many ladies testify that massaging black castor oil into their hairline daily has helped them re-grow their edges.  A  few drops of castor oil can be massaged into their hairline for a few minutes daily or a few times a week.

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Try to get some black castor oil but If you are unable to find it, do not despair.  Other oils like olive oil can be used.  This is because it is the massage that is the most crucial for the re-growth.
The massaging encourages blood circulation to the hair follicles.  Blood circulation helps to deliver nutrients to the follicles thereby facilitating continued hair growth.  It helps if you are eating right, staying fit and drinking water. Healthy bodies will produce healthy hair. 

Essential oils can be added to the castor/olive oil as this encourages blood flow to the follicles.  Peppermint, rosemary are favourites. Essential oils should not be used without being diluted as they are quite strong. Please check with your doctor before using essential oils if you are pregnant.

Time frame, it may take several months of regular massage to see progress depending on how much damage your hairline follicles are.   It may take 4 to 6 months to see an improvement. This is because when hair is pulled out from follicle, new hairs form and eventually grow out of the scalp and this process takes time.
As noted above follicles that have been permanently damaged may not produce new hairs.


7) See a Trichologist

If you have severe hair loss at your hairline( or any part of your hair) and believe the hair loss may be permanent, I would recommend that you see Trichologist for diagnosis and treatment.
If you have lost your edges from traction alopecia, chemical burns or bad hair care practices and they are not re-growing, despite regular scalp massages, use of essential oils and being in good health, it is possible that you may have suffered damage to the hair follicles at your hairline and you may need to see a Trichologist who can advise on prescription restorative treatments or procedures.

 

I hope you have found this to be a worthwhile read.

Have you noticed your hair line getting thing or receding.  If yes which of the above do you think you might try?

X

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow

MISTAKES I’VE MADE ALONG THE WAY

The hair JourneyI believe there are two ways to learn from other people.  You can learn from what a person has done right and you can also learn from the mistakes they have made.
In this post, I will set out some of the mistakes I’ve made over the years on my hair journey.

Mistakes I’ve Made With Research

I’ve said time and again that I spent 3 months researching before I officially started my hair journey. The key mistake I made at the beginning of my journey was that I ignored some aspects of the research.
For instance, I carried on using sulphate shampoos. I thought that since I would be deep conditioning afterwards, the harshness of the sulphates on my hair would be overridden.
Also I carried on blow drying with heat. I thought surely heat once a week can’t be that bad.
However, I noticed a vast difference in how my hair felt and progressed when I cut out direct heat and switched to sulphate free shampoos.

Mistakes I Made With Technique

I did not review and update my techniques as I progressed on my hair journey.
Up to when I was APL, I could wash my hair without putting it in braids.  When my hair got longer,  it would tangle badly on wash days.  Rather than reviewing my regimen,  I  would spend hours detangling my hair. However when I started to lose more hair than I was comfortable with  I was had to re-evaluate the situation. I realised that the only thing that had changed was the length of my hair.
I did a little research and quickly learned that longer hair tends to tangle more than shorter hair on wash days and that a way to overcome this was to wash it in box braids (calabar). I tried it out and it worked like a charm.
Ladies as you progress on your hair journey,  when a product or technique is no longer working for you; review, regroup and carry on.

Mistakes I Made With Products

There are two mistakes I made with hair products.

1)The first is that I did not give some products enough chance. I gave up on them and later realised that I had been using them incorrectly, eg, using too much or too little of the product.

2)The second mistake I made with products is that I gave up on products that worked well on my hair because they contained some ingredients I was trying to avoid like mineral oil and petroleum.
I switched from a conditioner that contained them to one that didn’t. The new one did not seem to work for my hair so I tried other conditioners that didn’t contain petroleum or mineral oil. Again they just didn’t seem to do much for my hair, so I went back to my Motions Moisture Plus which seems to keep my hair happy even though it contains some ingredients I am not too keen on.
My advice when it come to products is this: always try the products that are mineral oil and petroleum free first, if they are not working for you and you have a product that works for you but contains mineral oil/petroleum,  you can go back to using it BUT keep an eye out for a better product, ie one that doesn’t contain such ingredients and works well on your hair.

Mistakes I Made With Styling

When my hair was shorter there were so many cute protective styles I could have rocked but didn’t because I was too focused on growing longer hair. Now when try to create some of those styles it doesn’t look quite right.

Mistake I Made About Black Hair

Early on in my hair journey, I thought that when my hair became long and healthy I would be able to do all the things you aren’t supposed to do to black hair.
I thought I would be able to use a curling iron every day, and leave it down all the time and comb it till my hand ached. For some reason I thought being successful on a hair journey would give me a licence to do all these things to my hair.
Healthy black hair is still BLACK HAIR!
Healthy black hair (relaxed or natural) is still delicate, cannot tolerate heat abuse, must still be handled with care and protected.  Being on a hair journey will not turn the hair you grow to Brazilian, Peruvian or hair of another race.

The point of hair journey (in my opinion) is that at last, all the myths about black hair can be set aside and we as black women LEARN to give our hair what it needs.

So if you are natural, be aware of what your hair needs and how to take care of it.
If you are relaxed,  learn what relaxed hair needs and how to take care of it.
The same applies to ladies with coloured or locked hair.

Off course their are black ladies out there who wash their hair with anything and always wear it down and don’t even deep condition but still have butt length hair. These ladies are exceptions, I think we all no too well what happens to a lot of us when we don’t care for our hair.

I hope you  learn something from my mistakes.
Happy hair journey ladies.

X

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow.

HAIR BY TYPE 4 – THE “R” COLLECTION

Hello Ladies

I am so happy and excited to write and share this post.  At last I can show a few pictures of some of the wigs in the R Collection.
I can also share the news that Hair by Type 4 is featured in the current issue of Exquisite Magazine Nigeria.

Back in August, a writer and stylist for the magazine wanted to set up a photo shoot titled “Proudly Nigerian”.  I loved the perspective of the article which was aimed at showing that Nigerian design was not limited to “Ankara, tribal designs” or clothes.  The article would then feature some Nigerian designers whose work dispelled this stereotype and showcase some of their work.
My sister and I are so happy and honoured to be featured.

 

So the shoot was held at the end of August however, the issue we were featured in was only published at the end of November.  Clearly I could not share any of the pictures until the issue was out.  As a matter of fact, we did not see any of the pictures till we got our copy of the magazine.
We are very pleased with how the pictures turned out.  Our only minor concern was that the lighting on some parts of the wigs could be brighter, especially at the top /crown areas.

We are currently setting up our independent shoot that will show the wigs up close and in more detail.  After the photo shoot, I will put up our official pictures and the price list of the wigs in the R collection.
Thanks for all the support and interest you have shown as my sister and I embark on this entrepreneurial journey.
A big thank you also to the clients we have made custom wigs for.

 

Hairbytype4 Collage2

Top row left – The “Racy” wig
Top row right – The Romance wig
Bottom centre- Wig created for the shoot (this may be added to the R Collection in the future)

 

 

 hairbytype4 Collage1

Top left – my sister, Tayo and I.

Tayo (in the blue dress) is wearing a wig made with Brazilian hair.   Her wig is over 5 years old and is still going strong.

I am wearing the Romance wig,  at the time of the shoot the wig was a year old.  I washed and conditioned it.  Put some bendy sticks in it and it was good to go.

 

Well so there you have it,  a sneak peek.  Let me know what you think.

X

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow

 

 

HAIRSTYLE PICTORIAL – Embracing The Natural in Me

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Hello ladies,

I noted in my last hair update  that I am 14 weeks post and have a lot of new growth.
I had an outing and had to find a style that would work with my natural roots and relaxed ends.

I ‘am not sure if I’ve mentioned this before, but I actually don’t really enjoy wearing my hair down.  One of the main reasons I wanted long hair so badly was because I wanted my up-do’s to be huge and massive.

So whenever I have a lot of new growth, I see it as an opportunity to create hairstyles inspired by all the beautiful natural haired ladies I stalk online.

I created and wore this style to a Nikkah last weekend and decided to do a pictorial of it to share with you.
You should be able to re-create this style with collar bone length hair and longer.
Ladies with shorter hair can get creative and come up with similar styles using hair pins.

THE PICTORIAL

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THE FINISHED LOOK

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HAIR + STYLEIMG_1838

 

What do you think?  Would you rock this natural hair inspired protective style?

 

I have a great post coming up very soon.
I’ve been so eager to share some pictures since August but wasn’t able to for reasons I will explain.
At last, I am able to share them with you all.
(hint – they are pictures of some of the wigs in the Hair by Type 4- R Collection)

Hopefully you’ll be back soon to see them.

x

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow