HAIR CARE WHILST WEARING EXTENSIONS: The pros and cons of hair extensions (Part 1)

Braids and weaves

It is apparent that several of us wear weaves, braids and wigs majority of the time and rarely leave our own hair out.

Extensions are versatile, allowing you to switch up your hair style and can be a fantastic long term protective style.
I love wigs in particular and still wear them regularly despite the length of my own hair.
However several ladies have suffered severe breakage and traction alopecia as a result of hair extensions.

In this 3 part series, I will set out the pros and cons of wearing extensions, what you should do to ensure your extensions are installed and removed correctly, and most importantly, how to care for your own hair when wearing extensions so that hair loss is minimised.

 

CONS: why extensions can be destructive to your hair and scalp

Alopecia

 

1) Hair that is in poor condition before installing extensions.
If your hair is weak and/or in a poor condition, hiding it in a weave/braids and ignoring it will not make your hair problems go away.  So when you eventually remove your extensions the problem will still be there waiting for you and may have even worsened due to weeks of neglect.
Ensure your hair is in good shape and resolve any underlying problems before installation.   Remember, creating and being consistent with your hair journey will keep your hair in good condition in preparation for your extensions.

2) Tight and heavy extensions.
It is well known that weaves and braids should not be too tight when installed, especially around the hairline, but the fact is several of us (myself included in the past) ignore this advice.
Several of us have severely damaged hair lines due to traction alopecia (hair loss causes by the weight and tension of extensions) and yet we carry on repeating such hair styles.  When installing your extensions, ensure that the hair line and other sensitive part of your hair are handled gently and that too much extension hair is not used or added to such areas.  The weight of the extension hair on delicate areas for weeks is likely to cause hair loss.

3) Choosing styles that your hair cannot withstand.
As noted above several of us have experienced hair loss as a result of wearing extensions.
Note that if your hair follicle (root of the hair) has been permanently damaged, those follicles may either stop producing hair or the hair they re-grow may be weak and sparse in comparison to the other parts of your head.  This is why it is very important to stop doing hair styles that your hairline and other sensitive parts of your hair cannot withstand.
You should either find a way to prevent such loss and be willing to stop wearing such hair styles if your hair cannot withstand it.  Because in the long run it could result in PERMANENT hair loss.  We all know women whose hairline has “refused” to grow back. Don’t make the same mistake.
If your hairline keeps getting pulled out by braids or weaves, it may grow back now but if you keep doing such styles it may become permanently damaged and not grow back.

For example I haven’t worn braids or cornrows in almost 10 years because despite my efforts my hairline was always pulled out because of the weight of the extensions.  My hairline, particularly my temples are very delicate.  I would install braids or cornrows, it would rip out my hairline, I would wait for my hair line to re-grow and then re-install.  Talk about a vicious cycle.  After I accepted that braids were just not compatible with my hairline, I stopped wearing braided hair styles.
The moral of the story is this: I decided to put the health of my hair before a hair style and I stopped wearing braids or cornrows.
If you are fortunate enough to have a hairline that can withstand braids/cornrows then by all means please continue wearing such styles if you so desire.

4) Neglecting your own hair whilst wearing extensions.
Extensions should not be seen as a holiday from caring for your own hair.
You will not have to complete your full weekly hair regimen due to restricted access but completely ignoring your own hair whilst wearing extensions is not advisable.  Neglecting your own hair will lead to severely dry hair which has a greater risk of breaking especially when the extensions are being taken out.  There is a lot of manipulation when removing braids and weaves (unravelling the braids or weave tracks, detangling, combing).  Manipulating dry and brittle hair is likely to result in high amounts of breakage.

 5) Improper removal of extensions.
As noted above, there is a lot of manipulation involved in taking out hair extensions.  Rushing the removal process is not advisable and will certainly do more harm than good.  Hair that has been in extensions for weeks is usually fragile; it is the worst possible time to be aggressive with your hair.
Improper removal of hair extensions can lead to a setback on your hair journey.

 

PROS: reasons why extensions can be good protective styles

1) They are low maintenance.  Note that I said LOW maintenance not NO maintenance, basically your hair regimen is not as intense and time consuming as when you are wearing your own hair.

2) They can be worn for several weeks making them long term protective styles so you will not need to re-style your own hair every day, they are time saving.

3) Several extensions styles hide majority or all of your hair protecting it from damage by exposure to the elements, sun, wind, harmattan dust, etc.

4) Extensions prevent constant manipulation like combing and brushing, this helps with hair retention.  the more hair you retain, the longer your hair will become over time.

5) They can be incorporated into your hair regimen and may used as a means of growing your hair (it is a good hair retention tool).

 

As I have emphasised through out this site, I only wear wigs.  I have not worn braids in almost 10 years or sew-on weaves for over 6 years now.
This is a PERSONAL choice because my hairline is very delicate and could not withstand braids and the pressure and tightness of weaves even when I did everything right .  I decided to give my hair a break from both and started wearing wigs at the beginning of my hair journey and I haven’t looked back since because this is what works for me.

I realise however that there are ladies out there whose hair and scalp can tolerate weaves and braids and that is why I decided to start this series. I hope you find it helpful.

 

Part two will be up real soon, so I hope you will be back here soon.

x

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow

 

PROTECTIVE STYLE PICTORIAL – MILKMAID BRAIDS

 

Tutorial3

This post is a day late, sorry, but here is the picture tutorial I promised.  As I mentioned in my previous post, my hair had been in a bun all week and had become thin and greasy from moisturising and sealing it heavily.

Tutorial1
I got a lil bored of the bun and decided to do experiment with some sort of style when heading out for a quick lunch.
My hair was so greased up (from olive and coconut oil) so I decided to try milkmaid braids.  I didn’t think any other style would work.  It didn’t turn out exactly how I wanted but I was pleased enough with it.

So here is a quick pictorial of how I created my version of milkmaid braids.

THE PICTORIAL

Tutorial2

HAIR + STYLE

Tutorial4
This dress had plenty of room for the nkwobi, pounded yam and efo riro I demolished at Yellow chilli.

Ladies, what is your verdict on this hair style?  Should I do it again?

x

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow

RELAXERS & HOW TO MINIMISE THE RISK OF HAIR LOSS WHEN RETOUCHING ( PART TWO)

Relaxer2a

For a complete grasp of relaxing and minimising hair loss from relaxing, please ensure you have read part 1 of this post.
Preparing black hair for relaxing should commence a week before the relaxer date.  This is especially important if your hair has just been removed from extensions. Hair should be removed from extensions at least a week before relaxer day.

 

ACTIONS TO BE COMPLETED THE WEEK BEFORE RELAXING BLACK HAIR

1)    Wash and deep condition with a protein conditioner
Hair that has a lot of new growth and hair that has just been removed from extensions tends to matt and tangle when being washed.  For this reason I would advise that the hair is thoroughly detangled and then put into 6 to 8 box braids (calabar with no extensions).
The hair can be washed and deep conditioned in the box braids as this will decrease the risk of the hair matting.  A detailed post on how to do this will be up soon.
A protein conditioner will give the hair the strength it needs to undergo the relaxing process.  A moisturising leave-in conditioner should be used to restore protein/moisture balance.

2)    Avoid scratching or irritating the scalp
Avoid scratching or irritating the scalp during the week.  Also your hair should be put in a simple style that will not require a lot of pulling and combing to achieve.  The style should also be easy to maintain or recreate during the week.
If you need to comb your hair during the week divide your hair into four sections, and comb through gently with a wide tooth comb.  This way you do not disturb your scalp. A scratched or irritated scalp has a high risk of burning and becoming damaged during the relaxing process.

3)    Moisturise and Seal   
The hair should be moisturised and sealed a few times during the week to prevent it from becoming excessively dry.

 

A STEP BY STEP GUIDE FOR RELAXER DAY

relaxer2b

 

1.    Part hair into 4 or more questions
Your hair should be parted into 4 or more sections.  I part my hair into 5 sections, 3 at the back and 2 at the front.  Because I relax every 4/5 months, I have loads of new growth so parting my hair into 5 sections for relaxing makes it easier to access the roots.
You can keep the sections separated by using a hair clip or hair band. When you are at the salon, ensure the hair is kept in those sections throughout the relaxing process, for ease of access.

2.    Detangle each section
Detangle each section gently with your hands.  This can be followed by a wide tooth comb if necessary.
This is ESSENTIAL.  Do not apply relaxer to hair that has knots and tangles.  If the tangles are left in the hair, if will cause bigger tangles and knots when the hair is being washed.  These will be very hard to remove by hand and will cause major damage if they are combed out.
To avoid this ensure your hair is thoroughly detangled before relaxing.  The salon may not be willing to spend that much time detangling thoroughly or gently enough.  I advise you to detangle yourself at home before going to the salon.

3.    Protect your scalp
Oils like pure olive oil, coconut oil, castor oil, etc should be applied to the scalp whilst detangling to protect the scalp.

 

4.    Protect hair that has been previously relaxed
Hair that has been relaxed previously must be protected to prevent over processing.  To do this, apply either an oil or conditioner to previously relaxed hair to protect it.

 

5.    Protect your hair line and perimeter
Ensure oil or hair grease is applied to your hairline and your ears to protect them.

 

 6.    Apply relaxer to new growth only
Relaxer must be applied to natural new growth only, it must not be applied to previously relaxed hair.  Applying relaxer to previously relaxed hair will cause over processing.  Over processed hair will break gradually over the following weeks and months.

 

relaxer2c

7.    Avoid combing through hair when there is relaxer in it
The back of a rat tail comb may be used to smooth in the relaxer or hands can used to pull the hair straight.  Combing through can lead to damage and may also irritate the scalp

 

8.    Rinse after time recommended by the relaxer brand
The direction provided on the relaxer jar or box will specify how long the relaxer should be left on for.  Do not wait for your scalp to start burning before rinsing out the relaxer.

 

9.    Neutralise at least 3 or 4 times.
After the relaxer has been rinsed off, the hair should be washed with a neutralising shampoo a minimum of three times.
During the second or third wash, the shampoo lather should be left in hair for about five minutes to give it time to penetrate the hair shaft and fully neutralize.  Personally I neutralize 4 times, I’d rather be safe than sorry.


10.
  Deep Condition

After neutralizing, your hair should be deep conditioned with either protein or a mixture of protein and moisture conditioners.
If you use a protein conditioner alone, ensure you follow up with a moisturising leave in conditioner to help restore protein and moisture balance.  Your hair can then be roller set or blow dried gently.

 

11.  Well done
If you have followed all the instructions above, then you will have greatly minimised the risk of hair loss from the relaxing process.

 DSC06482

                                           Early 2013-  My hair after a successful but tiring relaxer day

HAIR CARE FOR THE FIRST 2 WEEKS AFTER RELAXING

Do not install braids or weaves in the first two weeks after relaxing your hair.
Hair that has just been relaxed needs a lot of TLC and cannot withstand the tension of extensions.  After the two week period, ensure your hair is washed and deep conditioned with a mixture of protein and moisture conditioners before the extensions are installed.
Ensure you take care of your hair in those two weeks, i.e., moisturise and seal regularly, wear protective hair styles, etc.

 

I hope the above guide has not been too daunting and I hope your next relaxer sessions goes really well.

 

Learn | Change | Grow

 

x Lade  

 

PROTECTIVE HAIR STYLE – PICTURE TUTORIAL

pictorial7 

I thought I should start with a reminder that a protective style is a hair style that does not require heat  or too much manipulation (combing, pulling) to achieve.

It should keep hair off the shoulders and protect the hair from exposure to the elements, especially at the ends.  This basically means that the ends of the hair which are the oldest and weakest parts of our hair should be tucked away or hidden to prevent it from getting dry by exposure to the sun and wind, or from getting damaged from rubbing on your shoulders and clothes.

I created the above hair style when heading out for lunch with a few friends.  Please see the pictorial below which shows how you can recreate the style.


THE INSPIRATION
 pictorial 8

WHAT MAKES IT A PROTECTIVE STYLE

DSC07120

THE PICTORIAL

IMG_0187Pictorial

HAIR + STYLE Pictorial3

 

Coming Soon to Hairducation

Coming soon

I never intended to start a hair care blog.
I was just another girl with hair issues when I began my  hair journey.  But as my hair grew longer, people around me noticed and started asking for advice and tips for their own hair.

I am always happy to answer hair related questions however it is hard to break down all the aspects of a hair journey in brief conversations with people who approach me. I decided that the best way to overcome this problem was to create my personal online hair care guide and now I can direct whoever approaches me here.

The truth is I love talking about hair and this blog gives me a perfect excuse to do so in a clear and concise manner.

There are so many topics and information I want to share and discuss such as:

PRACTICAL HAIRCARE TOPICS
Relaxer Do’s and Don’ts –  a detailed guide and practical tips to help prevent hair loss as a result of relaxing.
Divide and Conquer– why you should do everything to your hair in sections and how it minimises breakage
How to combine healthy hair care practices with wearing extensions – Three part series

EDUCATIVE TOPICS
Why we have to make a conscious effort to grow our hair unlike other races
Why black hair appears to stop growing at shoulder length
How much of hair length and thickness is down to genes
Why shiny hair isn’t the same as healthy hair

TOP 10 & TOP 5 SERIES
Top 10 things which damage black hair
Top 10 hair inspirations -ladies whose hair made my jaw hit the floor and inspired me to begin my own hair journey
Top 5 mistakes I made at the beginning of my hair journey

SOCIAL CULTURAL BLOG POSTS
Guest features

Style trends
Celeb looks

 

I hope a few of the above topics grab your attention and that you will find them informative, motivational and entertaining.

I am so excited get started so please visit the Hairducation blog home page for regular blog posts.

Learn | Change | Grow