MY WIG REGIMEN EXPLAINED

My wigs over the years

Throwback pictures of me in wigs on my hair journey

 

 

Hello ladies

Its no secret that I used wigs to grow my hair from shoulder length to bra strap length. Even though I have reached my hair length goals, I still wear wigs as a part of my healthy hair regimen. In this blog post I intend to discuss why wigs work for hair growth and then I will explain the various elements of my wig regimen.

 

Why Wigs Work for Hair Growth

1) Low Manipulation

Combing, styling, washing, conditioning, detangling etc are all examples of manipulation.
Our hair, whether natural, texlaxed or relaxed thrives when manipulation is kept to a minimum.  This is why a lot of ladies notice hair retention after wearing long term protective styles like braids, weaves and wigs. When wearing these sorts of styles we are not manipulating our hair as much which means we experience less breakage and have an increase in length.

A problem with weaves and braids however is that there is a lot of manipulation required to create these styles( ie there is usually a lot of sectioning, combing and tension required to create the styles especially if you want the style to look very neat).  Also these styles can lead to hair breakage if they are not installed or removed correctly.

There is a lesser degree of manipulation required to wear a wig in comparison to weaves and braids. With a wig all you have to do is cornrow or put your hair in box braids under your wig. There is no need to add extensions. Also the cornrows under the wig do not have to be too tight for neatness because you are only going to cover it with a wig.

Wigs are long term protective styles that allow you to greatly minimize how often you manipulate your hair. Using my hair as an example, when I have my hair out I wash it weekly, when I am wearing wigs however I wash my hair every three weeks and my hair is not being manipulated daily. As a result of this I experience less breakage because i am leaving my hair alone.

2) Stretching Aid

For ladies who are relaxed or texlaxed, extending the periods between your relaxer to more than 8 weeks is known as stretching.
For example, rather than texlaxing my hair every 8 weeks, I texlax every 20 weeks. I have written a post about stretching and its benefits which you can read here.
Although stretching has a multitude of benefits, it certainly has an equal amount of challenges. Managing different textures, increased risk of tangling and matting, styling challenges, breakage at the line of demarcation etc. To reduce the stress of challenges that come with stretching, wearing a long term protective style is advisable.
This is because any manipulation when you are deep into your stretch can be very difficult and time consuming.  You have to be very gentle to avoid breakage at the line of demarcation.  You also have to keep your new growth moisturised  regularly to minimise breakage and dryness.

Wearing a wig is a great way to reduce daily and weekly manipulation when on a stretch.  If you have your hair in cornrows or box braids under the wig it can make access to your scalp and moisturising and sealing easier.

 

My Wig Regimen Explained

. Currently, I follow this regimen from week 9 to week 20 post relaxer.  My wig regimen is written in pink text.

  • Hair kept in 20 box braids under Hair by Type 4 wigs.

If your hair is long enough to cornrow or put into box braids it is advisable to do this before wearing your wig. It will make your wig sit better on your head and more importantly it will reduce daily manipulation of your own hair. Ie . There will be no need for daily detangling or combing.  I choose to wear my hair in box braids because I find it easier to create myself than cornrows.

 

 

  • Undo box braids, detangle, shampoo and condition every 3 weeks
  • Deep condition with heat for 30 minutes  after washing (moisture and protein conditioners used)
  • Use leave in conditioners after deep conditioning (moisture and protein leave-ins used)
  • Air dry after every wash

I do not  wash my hair weekly whilst it is under my wig.  After a three week period however, my box braids will begin to matt especially at the base. At this point I have to undo the box braids to prevent my hair from locing. This gives me a chance to thoroughly detangle my hair, clean and condition my hair to boost its strength and moisture levels.

 

 

  • Put my hair back in 20 box braids ( which I keep for 3 weeks)

After my hair is fully dry on my wash day, I put it back into the box braids and put my wig back on.
With braids and weaves, it is advisable to give your hair a minimum of one week break before re-installing another braid or weave style. This is to give your scalp a chance to recuperate from the weight and stress of the extensions. With wigs however you do can simply carry on wearing your wig because your scalp wouldn’t have been stressed in the first place.

 

 

During the 3 weeks when my hair is in box braids under my wig I do the following:

  • Moisturise and seal the box braids 2 times a week
  • Mist the box braids and my wig cap  lightly every morning ( if I think my hair needs it)

When I have my own hair out, I have to moisturize and seal about 4 times a week to keep my hair feeling soft.
With my wig regimen, I only have to moisturise and seal twice a week.  Because my hair is under my wig for most of the week, the moisture is not evaporated from my hair as quickly as when my hair is out. This saves me so much time and cuts manipulation by at least 90%.
When I have my hair out, moisturising and sealing takes me about 30 minutes because I have to section my hair then detangle and apply the product. When my hair is in box braids I simply rub the products on my palms and apply it to the box braids or spray on my hair mist followed by a little amount of oil. It takes me 5 minutes max.

 

 

  • Oil scalp once a week

Having my hair in box braids gives me access to my scalp and makes applying oil to it for scalp massages easier and less time consuming.

 

 

  • Remove wig and sleep with hair covered with a satin or silk scarf every night
  •  I keep my scalp clean by wiping it gently with baby wipes and very warm  water once a week.

A clean scalp is important for healthy hair growth.   I avoid washing my hair weekly whilst on my wig regimen because I am trying to decrease manipulation as much as possible . However, I have to find other means to clean my scalp. By wiping the exposed part of my scalp I can remove some of the dirt, debris and shed skin. Being able to remove my wig makes this task much easier.

 

I hope this blog has helped to provide more details on my wig regimen and why it works.
I do not want to give braids and weaves a bad reputation. They can be protective if installed and removed correctly and you take care of your hair whilst wearing them. However I believe that wigs are a better option because they are less invasive, requires a lot less manipulation to wear and remove and give you complete access to your hair.  Combined with some good hair care practices, wearing wigs can be a route to longer and healthier hair.

 

I haven’t decided what my next blog post will be yet but I am sure I’ll think of something to share and as always I hope you’ll stop by soon.

Happy hair journey

x

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow

 

 

 

 

OILS ON A HAIR JOURNEY

 

shea butter

 

Hello ladies

I hope the month of March has been good to you all.  As promised this post is all about oils and natural butters.

Natural oils and butters (shea butter, have so many great uses in a hair care regimen. I decided to dedicate this blog post to sharing what these uses are and hope that readers will be encourage to use natural oils more in their regimen.

 

WAYS TO USE OILS ON A HAIR JOURNEY

 

Oils as a pre-shampoo treatment
Oils are great for lubricating our hair strands which helps with detangling prior to washing. I recently wrote a blog post about the benefits of pre-pooing and using oils as a pre-poo. Please see the post here.

 

Mixed in with deep conditioners 
Various oils are packed with so many beneficial properties that are great for our hair and scalp.

For example coconut oil has a molecular structure that allows it to penetrate our hair where it binds with the protein and helps to reduce protein loss.   Hair that has lost too much protein will become very weak and break easily.   Coconut oil therefore helps to keep our hair healthy and strong from within.

Black castor oil has its anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties and may help with problems like hair thinning and hair loss.

Adding a teaspoon or two of these oils to your deep conditioner will contribute to the health, smoothness, shine and strength of your hair.

 

Protect ends and scalp during relaxing
For ladies who relax their hair, it is very important to protect our scalp from direct contact with the relaxer to reduce the risk of scalp burns. It is also important to protect previously relaxed hair from the relaxer.

When relaxer is being washing out of our hair, it will come in contact with our previously relaxed length. Rinsing out relaxer takes time and it runs through the previously relaxed hair for several minutes whilst being washed out. This is enough to begin to process the hair. Over the years this can lead to over processing of the previously relaxed hair.
By applying oil to our scalp and previously relaxed hair we create a barrier which slows down the effects of the relaxer on our scalp and on previously relaxed hair.
When texlaxing my hair, I prefer to use a heavier oil such as JBCO, olive oil or a butter such as Shea butter to protect my scalp and previously relaxed hair. Some ladies simply use good old Vaseline.
Weaken relaxers for texlaxing
Following on from above, oils can be mixed in with relaxers to weaken its strength and straightening ability. This is commonly done by ladies who wish to texlax their hair. I tend to dilute my relaxer with 2 teaspoons of olive oil.

 

For Shine
Rather than using a hair sheen spray that contains a lot of synthetic ingredients, a few drops of coconut oil can provide amazing shine.
coconut-oil-for-hair-02

 

 

Scalp Massages
There are many scalp friendly essential oils we can indulge in.
Rosemary essential oil is one of my personal favourites. With regular use of rosemary oil helps to stimulate our hair follicles which encourages hair growth. It is also believed that rosemary oil slows down premature hair loss and graying of the hair.
Tea tree oil is known for its anti viral and anti bacterial properties. Lavender and peppermint oils are examples of other essential oils popular with ladies on a hair journey and that have great effects on our scalp.

2 to 3 drops of these oils can be mixed in with a teaspoon of a carrier oil like olive, coconut, almond, JBCO, avocado oils. This can applied lightly to your scalp for a tingling and refreshing scalp massage. Alternatively, you can add a few drops into your shampoo and deep conditioners.

 

To seal in moisture
As part of our hair regimen moisturising usually goes hand in hand with sealing.

As our hair ages the cuticle layer( the outermost layer) is not as compact as it was when the hair first grew out of its root. This porous state of our hair especially at the ends means that it absorbs moisture fairly quickly but this moisture also exits or is evaporated form our hair very quickly.
This is why sealing with an oil plays an important part by slowing down the evaporation of the moisture we have put in our hair. Coconut and olive oils are great for sealing.
Some ladies with natural or very thick relaxed hair prefer to use something heavier like Shea butter or castor oil to seal.

 

I am sure majority of you use oils or hair butters in your regimen and that it does your hair a world of good. Please share what types of oils you use and how you use them in your regimen. A fellow reader will definitely learn from you.

I have a section on Hairducation in which I share how I grew my hair with wigs but realise that I haven’t dug a little deeper into the techniques of my wig regimen and why I believe it works for me and so many other ladies. In my next blog post I will do just that. Come back soon

X

Lade
Learn | Change | Grow

 

 

 

PICTORIAL: Love on Top

 

Hello ladies

I hope you are all enjoying your weekend.  This pictorial post is short and sweet.  It is a very simple but cute style which unfortunately didn’t photograph as well as it actually looks in person.   I wish my hair was not as weighed down from all the olive oil I’ve been sealing with.  As a minimum I hope the pictorial gives you the gist on how to create the style.

           THE PICTORIAL: Faux Bob with a Love on Top, Literally

Love on top

 The back section does not have to be worn as a faux bob.  You can leave it down but I wanted to show the style in its most protective form.

 

love on top 2

 

Not that I have a Beyoncé theme or anything, but I was going to create some form of halo with the front braids but ran out of time.  I am sure so many of you will be able to come up with more creative versions of the style.  Please share your ideas.

My next blog post will be about oils, oils, oils…… and hair butters.  I will be sharing why and how oils and butters are so beneficial on a hair journey and can make a real difference to the look and feel of your hair. From texlaxing   to wash days ,every step of my hair regimen includes some sort of oil and I will be sharing some of my personal oil combos I use on my hair.

Come back soon ladies.

x

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow

HAIR UPDATE – 10 Weeks Post

 

feb15 3

 

Hello ladies

I neglected my hair a lot over the last month. I was determined to be very good on all fronts by eating well, exercising, having a good work/life balance and all that. It was all going well until I began have severe headaches in mid January and constantly felt tired with zero appetite. I thought I was just stressed out and my solution was that if I worked harder I would get more things done and then I would be able to relaxed more and I would feel better. Well my strategy failed and a few trips to the hospital later it turns out I had malaria and a severe case of typhoid.   It took a whole month for it all to go away but I thank God for good health. I am just relieved that I am able to get back on top of things. With all of that, hair care took a major back seat. Just before I began to feel unwell, I had started my wig regimen so my hair was in box braids. I only cleaned my scalp and moisturised and sealed my three times in a month. My hair certainly felt drier than normal and my ends took a bit of a bashing.   Also with the constant headaches I could not sleep with a scarf on. I covered my pillow with a satin fabric which probably helped a little.

If my hair was not in box braids it would have been catastrophic for me because I did not have the strength to detangle and moisturise and seal regularly. I am just glad that I had coincidentally put my hair away just before I began to feel unwell.

Feb15 2

 

RECAP OF MY WASH DAY

I washed my hair as soon as I felt well enough. On this wash day I pre-pooed with coconut oil, shampooed with Creme of Nature Argan Oil Shampoo. I did a tea rinse followed by a protein and moisture mix deep condition. I air dried after applying my Aphogee green tea leave in conditioner and s-curl.

feb15 6

BIG TRIM

I took the pictures in this post and decided I needed and wanted a trim so I took off three inches. I thought I would be hesitant but I just chopped away happily. I didn’t want to hang on to thin ends and my hair looks better overall.  I now have to give my hair a good dose of TLC to preserve my ends and avoid needing any major trims for a while.  I didn’t take any pictures of my hair afterwards but it is about an inch past waist length.

IMG_6874

GOING FORWARD

I feel I need to update my regimen a little bit. I have a lot of texture in my hair and after thinking things over I have decided to

  • Use a heavier oil to seal . I will now seal with olive oil instead of coconut oil.
  • Be more thorough when detangling. I intend to work in smaller sections.
  • Reduce the protein content of my deep conditioner mix. I now leave more texture in my hair when I texlax and my deep conditioner should reflect this.

EMAILS

I received an email from a lady who I believe wanted to share her progress with me. Just as i was about to open it sort of vanished.   I don’t know how this happened. I have also spoken to some of my clients who sent me emails which I did not receive. I have gotten through most of my back log and if you haven’t heard back from me kindly resend your emails.

 

What has been happening with your hair ladies? Please share your updates.
The next post will be a hair style pictorial and I hope you’ll visit again soon.

Happy hair journey

x

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow

 

 

 

 

 

 

FIGHTING SCALP DRYNESS – Moisturising versus Oiling

 

 

 

Scalp oiling

Hello Ladies

Scalp dryness is a common problem amongst so many ladies and I believe so many of us routinely oil our scalp because we believe it is essential for hair growth and to prevent scalp dryness.

In this post I will give a brief overview on our scalp structure, causes of scalp dryness and how to prevent it.

 

SCALP STRUCTURE

Like the skin on our bodies, the skin on our scalp has three layers which are the epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous layer. The epidermis is the top layer and is the part that we see hair growing out of.
Our scalp is naturally moisturised from within by water being pushed up to the epidermis from the deeper skin layers. Our skin also produces a natural oil called sebum. The sebum reaches the surface of our scalp through our hair follicles. Sebum’s function is to stop our skin from becoming excessively dry by preventing moisture loss.

 

CAUSES OF SCALP DRYNESS

Common causes of scalp dryness include

  • Not drinking enough water.
    If you are not drinking enough water, your body will send the water that you do consume to your vital organs first. Drinking enough water will ensure that an adequate amount is sent to your scalp helping to keep it hydrated from within.
  • Insufficient sebum production
    The amount of sebum our scalp produces can be affected by various things such as genetics, hormonal imbalances, medications, skin diseases, a poor diet etc. Whatever the cause, insufficient sebum production leads to moisture being lost or evaporated from our scalp quicker than a person who produces adequate amount of sebum resulting in dryness.
  • Using Harsh Products or Reaction to Ingredients in Products
    Harsh ingredients in hair products can leave the skin on our body and scalp feeling dry.  Also please remember that some people just react to certain ingredients even if it is a natural or organic product.
  • Build up of shed skin, dirt and product residue
    The skin on our scalp (like the rest of our body) sheds and flakes off, however if we do not clean our scalp regularly to remove shed skin, product residue and dirt build-up, it will simple pile up on our scalp leading to dryness, itching and other scalp problems.

 

RELIEF FOR SCALP DRYNESS

  1. Drink Up
    Consume enough water and have a balanced diet so that you give your body what it needs to moisturise and keep moisture locked in.
  2. Clean Up
    Ensure that your scalp is cleaned regularly either by using a gentle shampoo, co-washing or other means. The aim is to remove build up and actually moisturize your scalp skin externally by bringing it into direct contact with water. This is actually the best way to externally moisturise your scalp. Remember oils do not moisturise, they help to seal/lock in moisture.
  3. Experiment with New Products
    It may be that the products you are using might be harsh for your scalp or perhaps your skin simply does not react well with some ingredients in your products. If possible you can try other well recommended brands or an alternative natural product, eg switching from coconut oil to olive oil.
  4. Light Oiling
    If you find that despite regular cleansing (and using gentle products) your scalp still feels dry, it may be that your scalp may not be producing sufficient sebum to keep the moisture locked in. If this is the case a very small amount of a very light oil such as Jojoba oil can be applied to your scalp and massaged in. If like me you have heard rave reviews about a very heavy oil like JBCO ( Jamaican Black castor Oil) and would like to apply it on your scalp I would advise that you either use very little at a time or can dilute the thickness using jojoba or maybe coconut oil.

Scalp oiling is NOT necessary for hair growth.
Our scalp is designed to be moisturised naturally, if you do have dry scalp despite or simply out of habit feel the need to oil your scalp it is okay to do so HOWEVER try to use natural oil that a light and do not apply so much that you clog your hair follicles.

 

 

MY SCALP & I

IMG_6608

Depending on how busy I am, I apply oil to my scalp once a week but I do this as part of my scalp massage rather than to fight dryness.

I have gone through periods when I have not applied oil to my scalp for months but my scalp and hair is fine because I keep it clean and moisturised.  In the picture above my scalp has not been oiled for one month.
My scalp only becomes dry and itchy when I haven’t washed or cleaned it for 2 weeks +, i.e. when it is dirty.

I hope you have found this post informative and helpful.  Do you oil your scalp? If yes do you do it out of habit or to combat scalp dryness.  Share your experience ladies.

The next post will be a hair update post.  My regimen basically went out the window ad I have some explaining to do.

Come back soon

x

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow