Lade July 18, 2013

RELAXERS & HOW TO MINIMISE THE RISK OF HAIR LOSS WHEN RETOUCHING (PART 1)

Relaxer101

I used to be the girl that would remove her weave and get her hair relaxed on the same day.
I often left the salon disappointed because my hair would be the same length or in some cases shorter and thinner than when I installed the weave. I did not know what I was doing wrong.

A lot of us relax our hair but unfortunately a large percentage of us suffer hair loss as a result of it. This blog post will be the first of a two part series about relaxers and how to prevent hair loss as a result of relaxing.

In this post I will address the following

1) How do relaxers work (to give readers a better understanding of the risks involved)

2) Types of relaxers (to help readers decide which is best for their hair and scalp)

3) How often should hair be relaxed

4) Preparing hair for retouching and why this is an ESSENTIAL step for preventing breakage

HOW DO RELAXERS WORK

Hair structure

Our hair has several types of protein links/bonds in its structure. Relaxers work by opening the cuticle layer and penetrating the cortex of our hair.
The relaxer breaks some of the protein links in the cortex our hair. The hair is then smoothed/pulled into its new straightened shape.

The unfortunate truth is that relaxers work by weakening the structure of black hair. Please note however that relaxed hair can still look healthy and be strong if correct steps are taken before, during and after relaxing.
If relaxers are abused or used too often it can result in damage to the scalp and cause major hair loss. This risk is well publicised but unfortunately several of us ignore this advice because the hair loss that occurs may not be immediate. Relaxer abuse will result in weakened hair that breaks gradually over weeks and months.

TYPES OF RELAXERS

LYE RELAXERS

LYE

These are usually packaged in a jar or tub and are ready for use, i.e. there is no need to mix them with activators. They are sometimes called No-Base Relaxers.

PROS
Lye relaxers are said to be better for hair fibres because the formula does not leave mineral deposits on the hair. Mineral deposits left on hair fibres can hinder its ability to absorb moisture.
Also the levels of protein breakage that occurs with lye relaxers will allow the hair to retain more of its natural strength and elasticity than no-lye formulas.

CONS
Lye relaxers can be quite harsh on our scalp in comparison to no-lye relaxers. For this reason, lye relaxers may not be suitable for ladies with very sensitive scalps or ladies that burn easily.

NO-LYE RELAXERS

These usually come in a box kit that contains activators to be mixed in to activate the formula.

PRO
No-lye relaxers are said to be “easier” on the scalp than lye relaxers. This means that it is not as harsh on the scalp as lye formulas. So if you have very sensitive scalp which burns easily you may want to consider using a no-lye relaxer. Please note that all chemical relaxers (lye or no-lye formula) can cause severe scalp burns and hair loss if it is used incorrectly

CONS
No-lye relaxers can leave our hair quite dry. This is because no-lye formulas leave some mineral residues on our hair fibre which decreases its ability to absorb moisture. Remember dry hair has a higher risk of breaking. To overcome this problem a chelating shampoo should be used once a month if you use a No-lye relaxer formula. Chelating shampoos work beneath the surface of the hair fibres to remove stubborn minerals from no-lye relaxers, chlorine in swimming pools and hard water residue.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD HAIR BE RELAXED

My hair 16 weeks after it was relaxed, at the Naturals in The City Event in Lagos
New camera! Please bear with me whilst I learn how to adjust the camera light settings.

When your hair has been relaxed, you should wait at least 8 weeks before your next relaxer. Relaxers are meant to be applied to new growth and not on hair that is already relaxed.
The amount of new growth we have before 8 weeks is usually less than 1 inch long. If relaxer is applied to hair that has very little new growth, it will come in contact with previously relaxed hair thereby relaxing it twice and over processing it.
Over processed hair is very damaged and it will break easily over the following weeks and months.

Stretching Beyond 8 Weeks
The directions on most chemical relaxers suggest that hair should be retouched every 8 weeks. Please note however that you can extend the amount of time between your relaxer touch ups for longer than 8 weeks.
Extending the amount of time between your relaxers for more than 8 weeks is known as stretching. For example several ladies on healthy hair journeys stretch their relaxer touch ups to every 10 to 12 weeks, I relax my hair every 20 weeks.
I will elaborate on stretching, its great benefits and how to take care of hair whilst stretching in a separate post.

PREPARING HAIR FOR RELAXING

Protein Conditioners

As noted above relaxers work by breaking down some of the protein bonds in our hair. If hair that is lacking in protein is relaxed, you can begin to imagine how fragile it will be after the relaxer process. Hair this fragile and damaged will not be able to withstand daily wear and tear and although breakage may not be immediate, it is almost inevitable. It is therefore essential to prepare for relaxing by ensuring that your hair is not lacking in protein. Hair should be washed and deep conditioned with a protein conditioner a week before it is relaxed.

Hair that has just been removed from extensions is usually weak and in need of protein so to proceed to relaxing it the same day is a recipe for disaster: sooner or later the breakage will occur.
Hair that has been removed from extensions should be thoroughly detangled, washed and conditioned with a protein deep conditioner the week before relaxing. The hair should be washed in sections or in single braids to prevent matting and tangles.
Allowing a week between removal of extensions and relaxing will also give your scalp a chance to recuperate.

As always, I hope the above facts has helped somebody out there.

Please come back soon for part two which will provide a step by step guide for the actual relaxing process.

Learn | Change | Grow

Lade May 31, 2013

Coming Soon to Hairducation

I never intended to start a hair care blog.
I was just another girl with hair issues when I began my hair journey. But as my hair grew longer, people around me noticed and started asking for advice and tips for their own hair.

I am always happy to answer hair related questions however it is hard to break down all the aspects of a hair journey in brief conversations with people who approach me. I decided that the best way to overcome this problem was to create my personal online hair care guide and now I can direct whoever approaches me here.

The truth is I love talking about hair and this blog gives me a perfect excuse to do so in a clear and concise manner.

There are so many topics and information I want to share and discuss such as:

PRACTICAL HAIRCARE TOPICS
Relaxer Do’s and Don’ts – a detailed guide and practical tips to help prevent hair loss as a result of relaxing.
Divide and Conquer– why you should do everything to your hair in sections and how it minimises breakage
How to combine healthy hair care practices with wearing extensions – Three part series

EDUCATIVE TOPICS
Why we have to make a conscious effort to grow our hair unlike other races
Why black hair appears to stop growing at shoulder length
How much of hair length and thickness is down to genes
Why shiny hair isn’t the same as healthy hair

TOP 10 & TOP 5 SERIES
Top 10 things which damage black hair
Top 10 hair inspirations -ladies whose hair made my jaw hit the floor and inspired me to begin my own hair journey
Top 5 mistakes I made at the beginning of my hair journey

SOCIAL CULTURAL BLOG POSTS
Guest features
Style trends
Celeb looks

I hope a few of the above topics grab your attention and that you will find them informative, motivational and entertaining.

I am so excited get started so please visit the Hairducation blog home page for regular blog posts.

Learn | Change | Grow

Lade May 31, 2013

Hair Length Goals

I was watching Act like a lady, Think like a man in the cinema with a bunch of my friends and the following questions came up in the movie: what are your short term goals? what are your long term goals?
I smiled to myself because it reminded me of advice I received at the beginning of my hair journey. Advice about the importance of short term and long term goals when you start a hair journey.

THE FIRST GOAL

The first and most essential goal on a hair journey must be to improve the health of your hair. Having long hair which is unhealthy looking, badly damaged and very thin is not a good idea.
A popular saying on hair care forums is “health before length”. When you start your hair journey, you should focus on preventing further damage, restoring the moisture levels of your hair and preventing excessive breakage.
Having a hair regimen will help you achieve such goals.
Most ladies on a hair journey notice an improvement in the health, look, feel and thickness of their hair before they begin to see an increase in length.

THE LENGHT GOAL

When your regimen is in full swing and you are beginning to notice an improvement in its health, you can move on to setting your length goals.
If you’re going to start a journey you might as well have some sort of length destination, however short or long.
Also having a length goal will help to keep you motivated on your hair journey.

The picture above shows the hair length chart and acronyms used on many hair care forums.
If you are currently neck length for example and have a mid back length goal, it may seem a bit daunting and unattainable.
Well to make the journey feel less like mission impossible, it is advisable that you set short term length goals whilst keeping your long term goal at the back of your mind. It simply makes the journey feel more achievable.

My goal at the start of my journey was to have healthy APL (armpit length) hair. When I got close to reaching that length I thought, “hhmm actually BSB (below shoulder blade) would be nice”.
When I got to BSB the greed monster took over and I set a long term goal of waist length.
In the short term however, I focused on first getting to BSL ( bra strap length) and then to MBL (mid back length). Having short term goals made the journey to waist length that much easier.

Have you started or thinking of starting a hair journey? If yes, tell me, what are your short term goals? What are your long term goals?

Learn | Change | Grow

Lade May 31, 2013

6 Facts You Should Know Before You Start a Hair Journey

If you have just discovered healthy hair care journeys, it is likely that you will be tempted to start one immediately. Although this is a positive thing, before starting a hair journey there are some facts that must be pointed out. These are facts I believe you should be aware of before starting a hair journey.

1 Time

It takes time to understand the different types of hair products available and to learn how to use them correctly. Creating a regimen that is suitable for your hair type and lifestyle can also be time consuming.
Please note also that improvements in your hair will not occur overnight; positive results will be achieved over a period of time; months and years not days or a few weeks.
You have to be patient and have a realistic and fact based mind set on how long it will take you to achieve your desired hair health and length goals.

2 Consistency and dedication

When you start a hair journey and create your hair regimen, you have to be consistent and remain dedicated. There is no point taking care of your hair for a few weeks, ignoring it for months and then expect to see a positive change in your hair. Not being consistent with your hair regimen will only lead to disappointment. You have to incorporate healthy hair care practices into your lifestyle on a permanent basis. At first this may seem tasking and complicated however it will eventually become second nature.

3 On-going Review

If you have begun a hair journey, it is likely that you will have purchased new products and commenced healthy hair practices. You will have to review whether the products and practices are working for you or not. Ensure you are using the products correctly and assess how your hair reacts after a few uses. A hair journey and hair regimen should be flexible. It should start with the basic products and practices which you can adjust until you find the perfect regimen for you.

4 Do it yourself between salon visits

It is important that you find a good salon for processes like relaxers and colour treatment. Finding a good salon is important because you do not want all your efforts in caring for your hair to go to waste by patronising a salon that will damage your hair through improper practices that may cause a setback on your hair journey.

After finding a good salon, do not neglect or mistreat your hair between salon visits. You should ensure you take care of your hair yourself in the days or weeks between the salon visits. Neglecting or mistreating your hair may cause damage which even a good salon may not be able to reverse.

5 What works for her may not work for you

A hair regimen is unique to each individual. Products which work perfectly for one lady may not work or be suitable for another. A hair journey requires some trials with products and techniques to discover which are most suitable for your hair. Start with a basic regimen using well recommended products. You can then amend your regimen as you go along, if necessary.

6 Overall Health

A healthy lifestyle, drinking water, sleep, a balanced diet and exercise must not be overlooked. A poor diet, illness, stress, hormonal imbalances etc are factors that can slow down the growth or increase the shedding rates of your hair. If you think that you are experiencing hair loss as a result of health issues, medical conditions or hormonal imbalances you must see a doctor and/or trichologist.

I hope the points mentioned above have not discouraged anyone from starting a hair journey. I thought it was important to be frank and set out the reality of what a hair journey entails to prevent frustration. I for one have found my hair journey rewarding. Like any goal in life, it is satisfying when you meet and/or exceed your goals. I learnt all the above facts before I began my hair journey but they didn’t deter me, if anything I was super excited to get going.

So ladies, are you up for the challenge?

Learn | Change | Grow